Titanosaur: Life as the Biggest Dinosaur – Natural History Museum

Entrance to the Titanosaur exhibition

I had some days off work to use up before Christmas and decided to pay a visit to the new Natural History Museum exhibition, Titanosaur: Life as the Biggest Dinosaur. Who doesn’t love dinosaurs, right? The exhibition had lots aimed at children, including an interactive game where you had to try and keep baby titanosaurs alive, but even as an adult it was hugely informative and fun.

The exhibition is all about the huge titanosaur Patagotitan mayorum. It was first discovered in 2010 when an Argentinian farmer spotted a large bone sticking out of the ground. Scientists descended on Patagonia, aiming to discover more, and as they dug nearby they found more bones from other titanosaurs: hundreds were found over a period of two years, from at least six individuals. By piecing these bones together, scientists have been able to recreate one nearly complete skeleton.

Thigh bone of the Titanosaur

Scientists have examined these bones to learn more about the titanosaur, and have modelled their skulls based on Sarmientosaurus, a close relative. Their peg-shaped teeth show that they bit leaves and swallowed them whole: usually conifer, horsetail and tree ferns. They had lots of space for jaw muscles, suggesting a strong grip. Their eyes and nostrils were placed far back to prevent twigs poking them as they explored trees for food.

A whole section of the exhibition explores the childhood of the titanosaur. Only one in one hundred babies survived to adulthood, as parents would lay eggs and then just leave them. The babies were tiny versions of adults from the very start, and only took two months to grow ten times their hatchling weight. Scientists can look at their bones to see how they grew: one ring equals one year of growth.

The exhibition also looks at how the titanosaur coped with being so huge, and why it might have grown so big in the first place. Patagotitan absorbed oxygen when it breathed in AND when it breathed out, helping it to function. It had light bones, with air sacs to make them even lighter, and wide hips for support, with a long tail for balance. They may have been able to keep warm by trapping heat in their body, generated by their guts and muscles. Their long legs also enabled them to walk huge distances in search of food. Their large size made it harder for them to get eaten.

With their rapid growth, long neck, sturdy legs and efficient lungs, they are the heaviest animals to ever walk the earth. The skeleton on display at the end of the exhibition makes you realise just how massive they were. I thoroughly enjoyed this fascinating exhibition.

Model of the Titanosaur skeleton

Fantasy: Realms of Imagination – British Library

On Saturday morning I attended the exhibition Fantasy: Realms of Imagination at the British Library. I went along with a couple of friends and thoroughly enjoyed myself.

Fantasy isn’t my favourite genre, however the exhibition left me with a long reading list and a new appreciation for its history. The exhibition began with an exploration of fairy and folk tales, the foundation of modern fantasy. These began as oral folklore and over the years have been written down over and over, adapted to the needs of contemporary audiences, and constantly reinvented. Many are dark, especially the original versions, unsanitised for children.

The next section looks at epics and quests, another ancient form of literature. Some of the best known works are the Epic of Gilgamesh and Homer’s Iliad and Odyssey. Another section, on the weird and uncanny, follows, which was probably my favourite since it is most closely linked with horror. The final section looks at portals and worlds, which are particularly popular in the modern age. Some fantastical worlds, such as Wonderland, are reached via a portal; others are entirely separate from our own.

The overarching themes of the exhibition are the timelessness of fantasy storytelling and the ways in which it has been updated and reinvented to ensure its relevance to each generation. It’s a thorough, comprehensive exhibition with plenty of treasures on display, including a glorious fantasy map, the manuscript of Susanna Clarke’s Piranesi, and a room inspired by American series Twin Peaks. It’s definitely worth seeing, and you will come out with a new appreciation of the genre.

St Augustine’s Tower – Open House London

St Augustine's Tower

As part of my Advanced Community Service badge for Rebel Badge Club, I had to take part in three one-off volunteering projects. One of the projects I chose was helping out at an Open House London event, as I have attended many of these as a visitor over the years.

I ended up helping out at St Augustine’s Tower. Grade I listed, this is the oldest building in Hackney, and stands in the centre of the original village. It is what remains of the Church of St Augustine, built at the end of the thirteenth century and later renamed to St John.

A close up of the tower

Despite extensions and additions, the church was deemed too small for the growing congregation in Hackney, and a new church was commissioned and designed by James Spiller, completed in 1797. Built without a steeple, one was eventually added in 1814, but it was not strong enough to bear the weight of the bells, so these remained with the original tower. This ensured that the tower was saved when the rest of the church was demolished. Even after the bells were finally moved in 1854, the tower was left standing, partly because pulling it down seemed more trouble than it was worth.

Hackney Council bought the tower in 1929 to save it from being demolished. Hackney Historic Buildings Trust has owned it since 1990, and has raised money to undertake repairs and open it to the public more often.

Inside the tower

Owing to the weather, I wasn’t able to climb up to the top of the tower and look at the view. However, I got to see the rest of the tower during my volunteering session. The ground floor contains information and displays about the history of the tower. The floor above contains displays about the history of Hackey as a whole. Higher up, you can see the original clock workings dating from the sixteenth or seventeenth century.

I definitely want to return to St Augustine’s Tower in the future to climb up to the roof. This little gem is well worth visiting.

FACTS

Address: Hackney, London, E8 1HT

Website: staugustinestower.org

Opening Hours: 2-4:30pm the last Sunday of the month (except December)

Price: Free

Thames River Police Museum – Open House London

Thames River Police Museum

As part of Open House London, I decided to visit the Thames River Police Museum, as I was going to be in the area and thought it sounded interesting. The museum is located in Wapping, and is only open on a handful of days per year, as it is situated within a working police station (the Metropolitan Police’s Marine Police Unit). Whatever your opinion of the Met or views on the police in general, the museum is a fascinating place to visit, crammed full of history, and exploring the Thames River Police from 1798 to the present day.

The River Police were one of the first uniformed forces in the world. Though it was a government body, it was funded by the shipping companies, who were losing lots of money to thieves who regularly pilfered their stock. The force proved very successful, saving over £122,000 in the first six months of its operation, not to mention several lives.

View of the Thames from the back of the museum

Like many small museums, this one contains many artefacts and it would take a very long time to go through all of them. Some of the most interesting items are old uniforms and equipment worn and used by police officers of the past. Photographs and documents tell the stories behind the force. One of their jobs is the recovery of dead bodies from the river: I certainly don’t envy them this work.

Some of the most poignant items relate to the Princess Alice Disaster of 1878, in which almost 650 individuals died after the paddle steamer sank while returning from a trip to the seaside. The museum contains the boat’s original flag.

This little museum is definitely worth a visit, so keep an eye out for its opening days – or head down during the next Open House London weekend.

Hats and equipment used by members of the Thames River Police

FACTS

Address: 98 Wapping High Street, London, E1W 2NE

Website: thamespolicemuseum.org.uk

Opening Hours: By advance appointment and on special dates

Price: Free

Royal Pharmaceutical Society Museum – Open House London

The Royal Pharmaceutical Society

As part of my Open House London explorations I paid a visit to the Royal Pharmaceutical Society Museum and Library. Not far from Tower Hill, it was a bit off the beaten track compared to the places I usually visit, but it was definitely worth it.

Items on display at the RPS

The building itself is new, having been designed in 2015, but the RPS’s museum was originally founded in 1842. It was meant to be a study resource for students of the newly formed School of Pharmacy. In 1937, it was decided to establish a historical collection, and librarian Agnes Lothian played a key role in purchasing relevant artefacts. In the 1950s, some of the collections were deemed less relevant and transferred away, while in 1976 the Society’s move to new premises in Lambeth prompted the decision to display items from the collections throughout the building. Since 2015 the collections have been housed in the Society’s new headquarters, mostly on the ground floor. The collections, which cover the history of pharmacy in Britain from the fourteenth century to the present day, including traditional dispensing equipment and storage containers, oil paintings and photographs, branded medicines, mortars, and drug jars – not forgetting early printed books, including herbals and early pharmacopoeias, housed in the library.

I enjoyed a free guided tour before checking out the collections for myself. There were some fascinating artefacts on display, including a polar bear-shaped container for bear grease, supposedly meant to stop hair loss, and drugs once widely prescribed including morphine and cocaine. Definitely a worthwhile place to visit if you’re in the area.

Opium poppy capsules

FACTS

Address: 66 East Smithfield, London, E1W 1AW

Website: rpharms.com/about-us/museum

Opening Hours: Mon-Fri 9am-5pm (closed on Bank Holidays)

Price: Free

Livery Halls – Open House London

There is so much choice when it comes to Open House London that sometimes I like to come up with a theme in order to work out what buildings I want to visit. In the past, for example, I have focused on churches and theatres. This year, I decided to visit several livery companies, located in the City of London.


Chartered Accountants’ Hall

The front of Chartered Accountants' Hall

I began the day with a visit to the Chartered Accountants’ Hall, the headquarters of the Institute of Chartered Accountants in England & Wales. It was originally built in 1890 to the design of Sir John Belcher RA, and was extended in the 1930s and again in the 1960s, this time to a more modern design by Sir William Whitfield. I enjoyed my guided tour of the Hall, especially the decorative bridge, inspired by the Rialto Bridge in Venice. The stained glass windows in this room – the members’ room – are relatively recent, having been created by Alexander Beleschenko in 2022. Now Grade II listed, the building has a fascinating exterior, with a carved stone frieze by Hamo Thorneycroft. Its interior features works of art by, among others, Eduardo Paolozzi.

Decorative bridge at Charted Accountants' Hall


Stationers’ Hall

The front of Stationers' Hall

I then made my way to the Stationers’ Hall, home of the Stationers’ Company. The Company has the strap line, “The City of London Livery Company for the Communications and Content Industries“. Stationers’ Hall is one of the few ancient remaining Livery Halls in the City of London. It is Grade I listed and was completed in 1673, after the Great Fire of London.

The hall has several beautiful rooms. The Stock Room, named after the Company’s publishing venture founded in 1603, has oak panelling and carvings dating back to the 17th century, as well as armorial shields of Past Masters of the Company.

She oak panelling and carvings in the Stock Room date back to the 17th century, while around the friezes are displayed the armorial shields of Past Masters or the Company including HRH The Duke of Windsor.  The room takes its name from the Company’s publishing venture founded in 1603. The Court Room is bright, ornate and richly carpeted, with an 18th century carved mantelpiece and gold Rococo ornamentation on the walls. I also particularly liked the images of books dotted here and there around the room.

The Main Hall is the most magnificent room of all, with oak flooring and carved oak panelling dating from the 1600s. It even has a Minstrels’ Gallery. The stained glass windows display several important figures in the world of books and printing, such as William Shakespeare, William Caxton and William Tynedale.

This Hall also has a lovely peaceful garden, which was a joy to relax in after the hectic day.

Court Room at Stationers' Hall


Founders’ Hall

The front of Founders' Hall

Finally, I popped into Founders’ Hall, home to the Worshipful Company of Founders. Unlike the other two halls I visited today, Founders’ Hall is contemporary, though the company itself dates back to 1365. It was formed as a guild aiming to ensure high standards in the production of bronze and brass articles.

The first Hall was destroyed in the Great Fire of London. This one is actually the fifth Hall for the Company, and was begun in 1985, designed by Sam Lloyd. It was Grade II listed in 2018, and contains Arts & Crafts and postmodern influences. Here, it was particularly interesting to see the coats of arms and other articles on display in the basement Hall, and have the chance to ring some bells in the ground floor Parlour.

Coats of arms inside Founders' Hall


I had a great day exploring these Halls. I think my favourite was probably Stationers’ Hall, owing to their connection with books and their lovely garden, but they all have their merits, and a great deal of history.

The Golden Hinde (Heritage Open Days)

The Golden Hinde

I’ve been meaning to visit the Golden Hinde in Southwark for years, but never got round to it, until this year’s Heritage Open Days when I finally got a chance to pay a visit (and for free).

The original Golden Hinde – the galleon in which Sir Francis Drake circumnavigated the world between 1577 and 1580 – rotted away and eventually broke up some time in the mid-seventeenth century (The best of the remaining timber was made into a chair, known as the ‘Drake chair’, which can be found in the Bodleian Library in Oxford). The current ship, located at St Mary Overie Dock on Bankside, is a full-size reconstruction and was built using traditional methods in Devon, launched in 1973. She has also circumnavigated the world, and has travelled more than 140,000 miles altogether, though she has been based at her current location since 1996.

Below deck on the Golden Hinde

It was fun to wander around the ship, imagining how sailors would have lived and worked on such a craft in the sixteenth century. Costumed guides were also on the ship and entertained the children visiting (as well as adults like me) with stories of life on board. I was particularly grossed out by tales of how the sailors wiped their bottoms, but the kids were delighted!

The water in the dock is currently drained as the ship is undergoing conservation work aimed at preserving it well into the future. Tours of the ship are available, and gigs occasionally take place on board, as well as events such as talks about female pirates to celebrate International Women’s History Month.

Inside the Golden Hinde

FACTS

Address: St Mary Overie’s Dock, Cathedral St, London, SE1 9DE

Website: goldenhinde.co.uk

Opening Hours: Daily 10am-5pm

Price: Visitors aged 3 and over £6, visitors aged 2 and under free, families of 4 £18.

Bow Street Police Museum

Entrance to the Bow Street Police Museum

On Saturday I paid my first visit to the Bow Street Police Museum, a new museum in Covent Garden. I visited in order to attend a talk, arranged for Heritage Open Days, called Performing Justice: How satire created London’s first police force. The fascinating talk explored how writer Henry Fielding, famous for his satirical plays hugely popular on the London stage, applied his keen mind to the role of Magistrate and ended up founding the Bow Street Runners, sometimes called the first police force. Fielding was fiercely critical of the corrupt court system and endeavoured to stamp out bribery and a good deal of brutality when he was in charge. True, he didn’t challenge capital punishment, which was a feature of the period: but he had sympathy for many criminals and understood how circumstances conspired to leave many feeling they had no choice but to turn to crime.

Gallery from the Magistrates' CourtGallery from the Magistrates’ Court

Trials were held at Bow Street Magistrates’ Court, which took place in the building next door: notable figures to be tried here include Oscar Wilde. The museum itself shows how the site developed over the years to become an early police station, with police cells built next to the court and used to house prisoners until the 1990s. Many of the original cells can be visited and they hold objects from the Metropolitan Police Heritage Service and videos featuring former Met officers, stationed in this building, telling their stories.

A police cell

The museum is fascinating and an essential resource to explore the history of policing in London, which is linked to the social history of the city and of Covent Garden. The museum also runs regular talks, and occasional walks and special events.

FACTS

Address: 28 Bow Street, London, WC2E 7AW

Website: bowstreetpolicemuseum.org.uk

Opening Hours: Fri-Sun 11am-4:30pm

Price: Adult £6, concession £4.50, under 12 free

Fitzrovia Chapel – Open House London

Chapel

I normally do my Open House London visits at the weekend, but if a venue is open late during the week I might try and visit it after work, and that’s what I did with Fitzrovia Chapel.

The chapel is located in the pedestrianised Pearson Square, which is off Mortimer Street on the site of the old Middlesex Hospital. I walked there from my office in Bloomsbury; the nearest Tube stations are Goodge Street, Warren Street and Oxford Circus.

Ante-chapel

The chapel was originally built for staff and patients of the Middlesex Hospital (demolished in 2006). It was designed by John Loughborough Pearson (1817-1897), a leading Victorian architect, and was funded by donations and fundraising. Work began in 1891, but the chapel was not fully completed for almost forty years, as it was ensured that no money should be spent on the chapel that had been raised for patient care. After the death of the elder Pearson, his son, Frank Loughborough Pearson, completed the work.

Iniside Fitzrovia Chapel

The first ever service was held in the completed structure on Christmas Day in 1891, and it was formally opened in 1892 by the Bishop of London. The chapel was never fully consecrated, as it has hosted services by chaplains and other faith leaders. It is now Grade II* listed and holds regular open days for the public, as well as concerts, exhibitions and other cultural events.

I found the chapel beautiful – I am so glad it was not demolished along with the rest of the hospital. Some photographs are on display showing the chapel in the middle of an empty building site, before work on the surrounding area was completed. It is a peaceful oasis in the middle of London, and beautifully decorated. The chancel over the altar is covered in golden mosaics and stars, while golden mosaics cover the entire ceiling. The ante-chapel contains tablets of white marble featuring inscriptions to hospital figures from all professions. The ceiling vaults contain roundels depicting the apostles.

Photograph of Fitzrovia Chapel after the hospital had been demolished around it

The Rossettis: Radical Romantics – Tate Britain

Poster for The Rossettis exhibition

I’m very interested in the Pre-Raphaelites, so was excited to see the exhibition The Rossettis: Radical Romantics at Tate Britain. It focused on brother and sister Dante Gabriel Rossetti (painter) and Christina Rossetti (poet), and, for the purposes of this exhibition, Gabriel’s wife Elizabeth (painter), born and better known to us as Elizabeth Siddal.

The exhibition explored how the family’s background – their parents were scholars of Italian heritage, and their four children, Maria (writer), Gabriel (who later adopted the name Dante), Christina, and William (writer and co-founder of the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood) had unconventional lives and shared anti-establishment views. Their father, Gabriele, was a revolutionary who had to flee Italy, and passed on many of his ideas to his children.

Poem by Christina Rossetti‘Remember’ by Christina Rossetti

Both Gabriel and Christina published poems at an early age. Today, Christina is the better known poet: her verse was inspired by poetry, love and religion, and is often passionate and full of life. Gabriel’s admiration for less conventional artists led him to co-found the Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood with his own brother William and several other artists; his own work was inspired by the likes of Dante and William Blake.

Painting by Dante Gabriel RossettiLady Lilith by Dante Gabriel Rossetti

The inclusion of Elizabeth Siddal’s work here is interesting. I’m very glad her work is becoming better known and she is no longer seen as ‘just’ Dante Gabriel Rossetti’s muse. However I would be more interested to see how her background and experiences shaped her own work, rather than lump her in with the Rossetti family who had a very different upbringing. The exhibition, it must be said, does make a good case for her inclusion, showing how her work and Gabriel’s inspired one another, and the similarities between her poetry and Christina’s in terms of exploring women outside of the conventions of the time.

I really liked how the exhibition tried to dive in to the lives of the working class models that often featured in Gabriel’s paintings, as well as confronting the problematic portrayal of different cultures in his later works. Ultimately, the exhibition did a very good job in highlighting the Rossettis’ impact on art, literature and culture.