Nunhead Cemetery: Crypt & Chapel Tour

I visited Nunhead Cemetery several years ago, as part of my ‘Magnificent Seven’ tour, and recently went back while I was completing the Green Chain walk. This reminded me that I never did visit the crypt, and after checking the Friends of Nunhead Cemetery website I found out that Crypt & Chapel tours ran on certain dates. I therefore resolved to pop down and attend one.

Nunhead Chapel from the outside

The crypt is located beneath the chapel. At one time it was considered the most prestigious place to be buried, and the most expensive. Those buried here had their own space with a metal plaque to identify them. Mourners could come down to the crypt (there is evidence of heating pipes and a space for a gas lamp) to view their loved one’s final resting place; there are two spaces either side of the main area which could have been used as waiting areas. The architecture is simple but impressive, and I imagine this could once have been quite a grand space.

Nunhead Crypt

Sadly, when the cemetery went out of business, the chapel burnt down due to arson and the crypt was vulnerable to the elements. It was also broken into, and thieves opened and ransacked the coffins in search of valuables, dispersing the bodies around the crypt in the process. Some years ago, there was an attempt to put the pieces back together, and the remains are now in some sort of order, but it’s no longer possible to identify which body belongs to which named individual, which seems sad. The spaces for the coffins are covered with basic wood plaques, and the atmosphere as a whole is rather damp and dingy. Personally I feel that those who chose burial in the cemetery itself, with an elaborate headstone, made the better choice – even the weathered and damaged monuments have a kind of grandeur about them.

The ruined Anglican chapel, on the other hand, has a rather pleasant feel about it. The arson attack which made it into a shell is undoubtedly a shame, but the chapel is now open to the air, and is rather nice. You can still see the marks on the wall where the pews used to stand. Some of the wall decorations are rather fragile, but overall the chapel seems to be standing up pretty well.

The interior of Nunhead Chapel

St Pancras Waterpoint Tour

I signed up for a St Pancras Waterpoint tour at the weekend, organised by St Pancras Cruising Club. I love visiting anything unusual or historical, so this was perfect for me.

St Pancras Waterpoint

The Waterpoint was built in 1872 in order to supply water to the expanding steam railway network at St Pancras. Like the Midland Grand Hotel, the building was designed by the office of Sir George Gilbert Scott. It is three stories high, measuring around 9m x 6m. The top floor contains a cast iron water tank, with a capacity of 2,400 cubic feet.

Our tour took us up to the Waterpoint and inside. It looks impressive from the outside, with ornate brickwork and detailing typical of the Victorian period. Inside, there are several information panels about the history of the tower.

In 2001, the Waterpoint was threatened with demolition owing to the development of the new Channel Tunnel Rail Link Terminus. English Heritage intervened and an agreement was reached to move the monument. The building was sliced into sections, lifted onto a transporter, and moved by road. One of the largest available mobile cranes in the UK was used for the job. A news report from the time is shown on a loop inside the tower, and is incredible to watch. The journey of 700 metres was completed without incident and the sections of the building reunited at their current location, on top of a heavily reinforced concrete slab.

St Pancras lock

We were able to climb to the top of the Waterpoint, inside the former water tank, and enjoy the views over London, particularly St Pancras Station, the Victorian gas works, the lock, and Camley Street National Park.

Finally, we got to enjoy a canal boat journey, which was a lovely way to round off the visit. You can sign up for a tour on Eventbrite.

Hidden Stories of St James’s Park

St James's Park looking towards Buckingham Palace

I signed up for a Hidden Stories of St James’s Park walk and attended on a sunny day in early summer. The walk began inside the park but then we headed out towards St James’s Palace, which was was built by Henry VIII on the site of the Hospital of St. James, Westminster between 1531 and 1536. To be honest this is a palace I didn’t know much about and hadn’t really paid any attention to, so I was glad to get a closer look at it. You can tell it is from the same era as Hampton Court Palace as it has a similar look about it.

St James's Palace

We learned about the history of the park and had a good look round. The best part was when we got to go and see the pelicans at feeding time. These quirky creatures are a familiar fixture in the park.

Pelicans at St James's Park

Check out the Royal Parks Events page for more information about this walk and other events run in the parks.

St Mary’s Church, Islington: A Guided Tour

St Mary's Church, Islington

I’ve spent quite a bit of time in Islington – the Almedia and Little Angel theatres are there, plus a couple of pub theatres – and I’ve often walked past St Mary’s Church. I was pleased to get the chance to sign up to a guided tour of the church, organised by Islington Guided Walks.

St Mary's Church, Islington

There has been a church on this site since the twelfth century, replaced by a new building in the fifteenth century and again in the 1750s. Maps show the church was at the centre of the parish, even while it was small and surrounded by fields. On the 9th of September 1940, the church was hit by a bomb, destroying everything except the tower and portico. I was surprised when I saw inside: from the outside the church certainly looks like a Georgian creation, and while the rebuilt church in the 1950s resembles a Georgian church in many ways, it is also distinctly modern.

Interior of St Mary's Church, Islington

The murals at the east end of the church were painted by Brian Thomas and depict events in Jesus’ life. Pews were donated by various local individuals and groups, including the Arsenal football team. The marble font is the original one from 1754, but the organ pipes decorating the west end came from a church at Berkeley Square. The Royal Arms which hang on the wall of the church are the arms of George II: he was king when the 1754 church was opened. At that time, it was a statutory requirement that all churches displayed the Royal Arms. Miraculously, they survived the World War II bombing.

Front of St Mary's Church, Islington

A small chapel to the right as you enter the church, the Prayer Chapel, contains brasses dating from 1540, originally present in the medieval church. They represent Robert and Alice Fowler and Henry and Margaret Saville (née Fowler), the Fowlers being an influential local family.

Royal Arms inside St Mary's Church, Islington

The crypt, today a rather bland space used for community events, actually dates back to the very first church on the site: one skirting stone has been identified as dating from the twelfth century.

The tower is all that remains of Launcelot Dowbiggin’s eighteenth century church. Inside the winding staircase is an original ship’s mast. The staircase takes you first to the bell chamber, containing bells from the Georgian church.

Entrance to the tower in St Mary's Church, Islington

Finally, we arrived at the top of the tower, and enjoyed stunning views over Islington and London as a whole. We could see right down Upper Street.

View from the top of the tower
View from the top of the tower
View down Upper Street

Hidden London – Euston: The Lost Tunnels

A couple of years ago I signed up for a virtual tour of Euston tube station’s lost tunnels. The tour was fascinating and I resolved to sign up for an in-person tour if and when they reopened. At the weekend I was lucky enough to get my chance.

Leslie Green-designed entrance to Euston station (CCE&HR branch) with its iconic oxblood bricks

We met at Euston Square station and watched a short video about the history of Euston mainline and Underground stations. I won’t repeat the information here as I put much of it in my blog post about the virtual tour, but it was a useful refresher. We then walked over to the old CCE&HR building, now surrounded by railings and facing imminent demolition. Finally we headed towards Euston station, through the barriers and down the escalators to the southbound Northern line platform (Bank branch), from where we headed through a door at the end of the platform to reach the disused tunnels.

Inside the disused tunnels at Euston

After checking out the tunnels we walked into another area where yellow paint was recently discovered – this shade of yellow in an Underground station means the Second World War. These tunnels were marked for use as a shelter during possible air raids for railway staff who weren’t able to get home.

Finally we went into a very secret space above the tracks and got to see the trains pulling into the station – it felt very surreal.

There’s no point in repeating what I said about the virtual tour, so instead, here are some pictures I took of the inside of the station.

Poster for 'Puss In Boots' in the Euston tunnels
Poster for the musical 'West Side Story' in the Euston tunnels

Poster for the film 'Les Liaisons Dangereuses' in the Euston tunnels
Poster in the Euston tunnels
Poster in the Euston tunnels
Poster in the Euston tunnels
Poster in the Euston tunnels
Poster in the Euston tunnels
Poster in the Euston tunnels
Poster for the film 'Spartacus' in the Euston tunnels
Advert poster in the Euston tunnels
Poster for the movie 'Psycho' in the Euston tunnels
Railway poster in the Euston tunnels

Goldsmiths’ Hall Open Day

The front of Goldsmiths' Hall

Well before the pandemic, I signed up for a tour of Goldsmiths’ Hall, due to take place in 2020. Well, we all know how that turned out. Many date rearranges later, the tour finally took place in late November 2022.

The main staircase of Goldsmiths' Hall

The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, also known as the Goldsmiths’ Company, is one of the Twelve Great Livery Companies of the City of London. It received its first royal charter in 1327. Despite the name, a ‘goldsmith’ traditionally works in both gold and silver, and today, platinum and palladium too.

The main staircase of Goldsmiths' Hall

Legal recognition of the company began in 1300 when King Edward I passed a statute requiring gold and silver to be of a defined standard. This was the beginning of hallmarking: the metal was tested and marked with the leopard’s head, supposedly taken from the royal arms. With the bestowing of the royal charter in 1327, the company was formally acknowledged as a craft guild, with the patron saint of St. Dunstan.

Gold-plated statue of St. Dunstan, patron saint of the Company

In 1339, 19 goldsmiths bought the current site (albeit smaller than it is now) for use as a headquarters. During the medieval period, the Company would meet at least three times a year to discuss business. In the late fifteenth century, the first assay office was established at Goldsmiths’ Hall, ensuring that quality goods were marked as such. The hall was rebuilt in the 1630s, but gutted by the Great Fire of London in 1666, and restored in 1669. In 1829 that building was demolished, replaced by one designed by Philip Hardwick, the Company’s surveyor, which still stands today.

Inside Goldsmiths Hall

Our tour took us from the main staircase into some of the chief rooms used by the Company. We sat in the main hall while our guide told us about the history of the Company and of assaying and hallmarking. It was interesting to learn about the history of the building – including how the ceiling became stained from the pipe smoke of the Victorian-era members!

Official robes

The tour was worth the wait and I would definitely recommend signing up for one if you can. Tours run throughout the year, although they do book up in advance.

A wood-panelled meeting room

The Goldsmiths’ Company
Foster Lane
London
EC2V 6BN

Hayman’s Gin Distillery Tour

Frontage of Hayman's Gin

It’s become something of a tradition that when my friend comes to visit me in London we visit a gin distillery for a tour and tasting. This time, we booked to visit Hayman’s Gin Distillery in south London (nearest station Balham).

We arrived in good time and enjoyed a complimentary G&T while we waited for the session to begin. I hadn’t had Hayman’s gin before but I have to say it was really lovely – I would definitely drink it again.

Inside the distillery

Hayman’s is a long-standing distillery in London, founded in 1863 by James Burrough, who pioneered the London Dry style of gin. His descendants Christopher, James and Miranda still run the business today. The current distillery in Balham is relatively new, and the space allows the family to host events celebrating the history and manufacture of gin.

The table set out for us

Our tour began with a short talk about the history of Hayman’s gin, before we headed downstairs to learn more about the botanicals present in the traditional recipe. We got to have a go at mixing our own blends using a pestle and mortar – it was impressive how different all our efforts smelled, showing the importance of creating the perfect blend to finalise the desired taste.

After that we had a look at the copper stills – Marjorie, Karin and Miranda, named after the women in the Hayman family – and learned more about the gin-making process. After that it was time for the gin tasting. We sampled three varieties of gin, traditional, exotic citrus and sloe, and enjoyed experiencing the differences between each one.

Gin ready for tasting

Finally, we made our way out of the distillery in order to find lunch, having had a great experience.

FACTS

Address: 8a Weir Road, London, SW12 0GT

Website: haymansgin.com

Opening Hours: See website for tour & tasting times; the shop is open Mon-Fri and some Saturdays

Prices: £25 for the gin tour & tasting

Hidden Stories of Hyde Park

Hyde Park

I took the day off work on Friday to go on a Hidden Stories of Hyde Park walk, organised by the Royal Parks. The walk began at Speakers’ Corner with a discussion of the history of this famous part of London, and its proximity to the gallows at Tyburn. We learned about the River Westbourne that runs under Hyde Park, and used to fill the Serpentine (which meant the water was a bit disgusting, as the river was full of waste).

The Serpentine
The Serpentine

We learned how Hyde Park used to be a place to see and be seen, full of the great and the good taking carriage rides or strolls. It was also a key route for farmers taking their livestock to be slaughtered at Smithfield Market, and we stopped at a water trough along the way.

water trough for animals

The walk ended with a visit to the Victorian Pet Cemetery, usually closed to the public. It was opened in 1881 when a beloved Maltese terrier named Cherry was buried in the back garden of Victoria Lodge at the request of his owners who lived nearby. When the Duke of Cambridge’s Yorkshire terrier Prince met an untimely end under the wheels of a carriage, he was also interred here, and helped to make the cemetery a fashionable place for wealthy Londoners to lay their pets to rest.

Pet Cemetery
Inside the pet cemetery

The cemetery is really moving – the pets buried here (mostly dogs, although there are a handful of cats, birds and even monkeys) were clearly much loved. Headstones reveal how precious these creatures were to their owners. Sadly one dog fell victim to murder – his headstone reads, “Poisoned by a cruel Swiss”. The cemetery officially closed in 1903, but occasional burials still took place up until the 1960s.

Check out the Royal Parks Events page for more information about this walk and other events run in the parks.

Dead After Dark: The Queen’s Gardens Ghost Walk

I love a ghost walk, so was excited to sign up to Dead After Dark: The Queen’s Gardens Ghost Walk, organised by the Royal Parks. The walk took place on a Friday evening and began at St James’s Park, ending in Green Park.

statue of Queen Anne
Statue of Queen Anne

The walk was hugely entertaining and I learned a lot about the history of both parks, as well as some of the stories and urban legends surrounding them. From the statue of Queen Anne, rumoured to get up and walk, from murders and ghostly sightings to fairy tales and hidden rivers.

Check out the Royal Parks Events page for more information about this walk and other events run in the parks.

St James's Park
Looking towards Buckingham Palace

Hidden London: Kingsway Tram Tunnel

The Kingsway Tram Tunnel

I attended a virtual tour of the Kingsway Tram Tunnel during lockdown, so I was excited to get the chance to attend a real, in-person tour when lockdown eased. I booked the day off work specially, and headed to the entrance ready for the start time.

Entrance to the Kingsway Tram Tunnel

I’ve seen the entrance plenty of times before – a line of tram tracks, heading down into a tunnel, with black railings on either side and lamps marking the beginning of the tunnel. This time, I actually got to go through the gate and see what was hidden in the depths of that tunnel.

The old station

We were shown a map of tram routes in London at the beginning of the 20th century, and it became apparent just how necessary the Kingsway tram tunnel was in order to connect north and south. Originally built between 1906 and 1908, the tramway finally closed in 1952.

The tunnel is dirty and dusty, and there is plenty of equipment lying about left over from when construction workers used the tunnel as a way in to the Crossrail construction site. The original tram tracks and iron ceiling, however, still remain. In the 1920s the tunnel was made bigger to accommodate double-decker trams, and this was mostly done by lowering the floor – which can be seen at various points along the route (at this northern end the roof was raised, and this can still be seen). The hill down to the tunnel is quite steep, and trams used to speed up at this part, slowing down when they got to the bottom. Alcoves are situated at several points along the tracks, allowing workers to safely hide as the trams were going by.

The tunnel

The central point of the tour was the platform itself, with staircases (now closed off above ground) marking the entrance and exit points for travellers. I’ve seen black and white photos of passengers waiting for trams, and it was eerie to be in that very same place, decades later.

roundel

A TfL roundel can be seen on the wall, labelled ‘Union Street’, but this is not original – it is left over from when the tunnel was used as a filming location and stood in for an Underground station. Much of the equipment and other assorted items down here are from Camden Council, who use it for storage – but the poster display rack is probably original.

Our guides regaled us with stories about the trams and the people who used them, including tales from those who remember travelling on the original trams, and those who travelled alongside them – such as cyclists who got their bikes stuck in the tram tracks and were told off by angry drivers! It was fascinating to hear these stories and imagine what it would have been like to travel on these trams all those years ago.